Monday, June 30, 2008
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Ten
When I agreed to become a pilgrim and start the temple walk I also agreed to abide by ten commandments. I had an abundance of time on my hands walking from one temple to the next and I wanted to write down some of my thoughts on the laws that I governed myself by for that month.
The first commandment is, "I will not harm life," (fusesho), the second is "I will not steal," (fuchuto), "I will not commit adultery" (fujain), "I will not tell a lie," (fumogo), "I will not exaggerate," fukigo, "I will not speak abusively," (fuakuku), "I will not equivocate," (furyozetsu), "I will not be greedy," (fukendon), "I will not be hateful," (fushin-ni), and last, "I will not lose sight of the truth," (fujaken). The reason I listed these commandments, and their japanese equivalents, is because I want to open a discussion about what they mean to you and to me.
1. I will not harm life.
I tried hard not to harm life, and even went so far as to help life wherever I could. In the above statement, how does one define life? Are mosquitos alive? I killed a few dozen of them walking around shikoku. Are plants life? Again I broke a few branches and hacked my way through a better part of Kochi prefecture. The lives of the baby bird, kitten, and countless insects I saved may ensure that the mosquitos lives I took cancel each other out, but I don't know. I highly doubt even Kobo Daishi, the omnipotent miracle worker and founder of the temple walk, didn't kill his fair share of insects by accident or on purpose, so I'm going to say I was pretty successful on this one in terms of not harming physical life. This far we have defined the first commandment as, "I will not kill," or, "thou shalt not kill," but harm does not necessarily mean kill. It can also mean harm in an emotional sense. I did not harm anyone emotionally, as far as I know, but I wanted to be clear on the definition of the first commandment for going on to the second. I will not harm life means be kind to everyone and everything, if you cannot be kind then be thoughtful, if you cannot be thoughtful then kill it.
Ill continue later...
The first commandment is, "I will not harm life," (fusesho), the second is "I will not steal," (fuchuto), "I will not commit adultery" (fujain), "I will not tell a lie," (fumogo), "I will not exaggerate," fukigo, "I will not speak abusively," (fuakuku), "I will not equivocate," (furyozetsu), "I will not be greedy," (fukendon), "I will not be hateful," (fushin-ni), and last, "I will not lose sight of the truth," (fujaken). The reason I listed these commandments, and their japanese equivalents, is because I want to open a discussion about what they mean to you and to me.
1. I will not harm life.
I tried hard not to harm life, and even went so far as to help life wherever I could. In the above statement, how does one define life? Are mosquitos alive? I killed a few dozen of them walking around shikoku. Are plants life? Again I broke a few branches and hacked my way through a better part of Kochi prefecture. The lives of the baby bird, kitten, and countless insects I saved may ensure that the mosquitos lives I took cancel each other out, but I don't know. I highly doubt even Kobo Daishi, the omnipotent miracle worker and founder of the temple walk, didn't kill his fair share of insects by accident or on purpose, so I'm going to say I was pretty successful on this one in terms of not harming physical life. This far we have defined the first commandment as, "I will not kill," or, "thou shalt not kill," but harm does not necessarily mean kill. It can also mean harm in an emotional sense. I did not harm anyone emotionally, as far as I know, but I wanted to be clear on the definition of the first commandment for going on to the second. I will not harm life means be kind to everyone and everything, if you cannot be kind then be thoughtful, if you cannot be thoughtful then kill it.
Ill continue later...
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Finished
I finished my walk the other week, but haven't got around to writing until today. I walked to the 44th temple, took a photo of myself smiling big, and headed for a bus stop to rest my aching feet. I took the bus into Matsuyama city and holed up in a youth hostel for days meeting new friends and talking to old ones. After a few days of exploring Matsuyama, its a nice city but nothing Id go back to, I got down to partying. After befriending a world traveling Japanese, a hitchhiking French man, and a crazy German we all set out into the night to paint the town. We got into loads of trouble and the highlight of the evening was talking to hosts and hostess after their work hours, if you are familiar with host clubs than you know, but if you're not I will explain.
In Japan they have host and hostess clubs that you pay to get into so men, who are usually adorned in some kind of fantasy rock star clothing and big hair, will talk to you all night feeding you drinks and pretending they like you. Same goes for the women expect they are usually wearing hot pants and fur. Talking to these people was like seeing the inside of a host club without having to pay.
After Matsuyama city I wanted to surprise Yifei, so I took the train all day to arrive at Nagoya at around 9pm. My heart pounding and my palms sweaty I rang the elevator to bring me to the 7th floor of her apartment complex. I talked to a nice girl in the elevator and stepped out, walked down the long hallway and gently knocked on her door. My knock reverberated through the empty apartment, alas, she was not there. I tried again, but there was only silence. The girl who I talked to in the elevator just happened to live right next door, and seeing my face she invited me in to use her computer so I could find a hotel. I quickly found one and departed with well wishes and an invitation to hang out that night. I went to the first hotel only to discover that it was booked solid, so I went to another and the same thing. I went to nine different hotels and they were all booked out because of some massive concert in Nagoya. I had nowhere to stay, but I did have something to do, so I called up my new friend Lynn and met her and her friends in front of Nagoya station. We went out to a small club where you had to take off your shoes and got to drinking. Met some cool people, danced all night to the wee hours of the morning, had McDonalds, fell asleep in a manga cafe, got up and felt horrible, almost died, felt a little better, walked to a youth hostel, got a hold of Yifei, went to the youth hostel and took a nap and a shower, finally got to see Yifei and it put a giant perma-smile on my face.
Now I am in Tokyo relaxing and just sleeping as late as I want without any worry about waking up and walking another 25km. I relish every second of doing nothing. Love and miss all of you. I'll be writing more in the next couple days, but this is just where I am now.
In Japan they have host and hostess clubs that you pay to get into so men, who are usually adorned in some kind of fantasy rock star clothing and big hair, will talk to you all night feeding you drinks and pretending they like you. Same goes for the women expect they are usually wearing hot pants and fur. Talking to these people was like seeing the inside of a host club without having to pay.
After Matsuyama city I wanted to surprise Yifei, so I took the train all day to arrive at Nagoya at around 9pm. My heart pounding and my palms sweaty I rang the elevator to bring me to the 7th floor of her apartment complex. I talked to a nice girl in the elevator and stepped out, walked down the long hallway and gently knocked on her door. My knock reverberated through the empty apartment, alas, she was not there. I tried again, but there was only silence. The girl who I talked to in the elevator just happened to live right next door, and seeing my face she invited me in to use her computer so I could find a hotel. I quickly found one and departed with well wishes and an invitation to hang out that night. I went to the first hotel only to discover that it was booked solid, so I went to another and the same thing. I went to nine different hotels and they were all booked out because of some massive concert in Nagoya. I had nowhere to stay, but I did have something to do, so I called up my new friend Lynn and met her and her friends in front of Nagoya station. We went out to a small club where you had to take off your shoes and got to drinking. Met some cool people, danced all night to the wee hours of the morning, had McDonalds, fell asleep in a manga cafe, got up and felt horrible, almost died, felt a little better, walked to a youth hostel, got a hold of Yifei, went to the youth hostel and took a nap and a shower, finally got to see Yifei and it put a giant perma-smile on my face.
Now I am in Tokyo relaxing and just sleeping as late as I want without any worry about waking up and walking another 25km. I relish every second of doing nothing. Love and miss all of you. I'll be writing more in the next couple days, but this is just where I am now.
Monday, May 26, 2008
Post
I guess Im a little travel weary because that last post sounded pissy to me. Ive been pounding the pavement pretty much non-stop since May 3rd and it takes a lot of mental energy to stay positive, at least Ive decided on a final destination. I`m going to make it to temple 44 because theres something satifying about completing exactly half of the temples, it just begs for future completion.
Speaking of mental effort I had a mental breakthrough/breakdown a couple days ago. I was walking to temple 39, the furthest distance between temples on the trek, and I began to pick up my pace. I walked faster and faster, my limbs akimbo, my neck straining against the straps. I imagine I resembled a giant lumbering walrus with my 20 pound pack, but I continued. Soon spittle flew from my mouth and I was yelling incoherently for things to burn, decay and die. I wanted no light to reach the earth and for happiness to fade from memory. I felt anger well up inside of me like an oil strike and release in a torrent of black putrid hate. Then, as I was climbing another mountain, the anger began to fade as if it were on a dimmer switch, and then extinguish. Analyzing the episode I realized that I have not been angry in a very long while. To be joyful and accomdating all the time is exhausting, so now that I have had my carnage fix I feel like a million bucks. Onward to glory.
By the way, did anyone hear that my brother just had a kid? I guess that makes me an uncle. Way to go Dan, your boys can swim.
Speaking of mental effort I had a mental breakthrough/breakdown a couple days ago. I was walking to temple 39, the furthest distance between temples on the trek, and I began to pick up my pace. I walked faster and faster, my limbs akimbo, my neck straining against the straps. I imagine I resembled a giant lumbering walrus with my 20 pound pack, but I continued. Soon spittle flew from my mouth and I was yelling incoherently for things to burn, decay and die. I wanted no light to reach the earth and for happiness to fade from memory. I felt anger well up inside of me like an oil strike and release in a torrent of black putrid hate. Then, as I was climbing another mountain, the anger began to fade as if it were on a dimmer switch, and then extinguish. Analyzing the episode I realized that I have not been angry in a very long while. To be joyful and accomdating all the time is exhausting, so now that I have had my carnage fix I feel like a million bucks. Onward to glory.
By the way, did anyone hear that my brother just had a kid? I guess that makes me an uncle. Way to go Dan, your boys can swim.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Good
Im all good, about to make it to some other place. After awhile it all runs together. Amazing and beautiful things can become boring. I want some carnage. I think thats why I went to an arcade today.
Friday, May 16, 2008
BOO
I have a cold. I told myself that it was just allergies until my whole head started to fill with goo, now it feels like a leaking balloon. I still managed to walk from temple 28 to temple 30, about 15km, and am now writing this in a cubicle. Japan has these internet cafes where you can rent out the room by the hour or stay the night at a discount price. I think they are made specifically for the hardcore gamer because they also offer food, beverage, showers and restrooms.
I met gaijin henro the other day. The first Ive run into on this trip. He got a grant from his school to study the 88 temple run, speaks great Japanese and was a huge asset for the two days we hiked together. Alas, he is returning home and I am once again without a map or language skills to navigate daily life. Just a couple minutes ago, dribbling snot onto the counter I tried to get the girl behind the counter to let me use the computer without buying a membership card `because,` I said, `I will never come back here again.` She just stared at me, and I at her, until I finally said, Marshmellow pistolwhipping dog muffin and pointed at the card. She took that as confirmation and now I have a membership card to, new new Cafe: for fun relax time.
It was really nice to speak English for awhile, and I think as soon as I started to speak english I became more American. Ill explain. I have to become more Japanese to survive without using language, which means I bow a lot and say the three words I know in Japanese again and again. I hadnt spoken proper English and I hadnt told a joke that anyone understood in two weeks, so as soon as I was understood I unloaded two weeks worth of comedy. Alex was rolling and I again became American. My body language started to loosen up, I nodded up instead of down and started another war in the middle east. It was a breath of fresh air.
I met gaijin henro the other day. The first Ive run into on this trip. He got a grant from his school to study the 88 temple run, speaks great Japanese and was a huge asset for the two days we hiked together. Alas, he is returning home and I am once again without a map or language skills to navigate daily life. Just a couple minutes ago, dribbling snot onto the counter I tried to get the girl behind the counter to let me use the computer without buying a membership card `because,` I said, `I will never come back here again.` She just stared at me, and I at her, until I finally said, Marshmellow pistolwhipping dog muffin and pointed at the card. She took that as confirmation and now I have a membership card to, new new Cafe: for fun relax time.
It was really nice to speak English for awhile, and I think as soon as I started to speak english I became more American. Ill explain. I have to become more Japanese to survive without using language, which means I bow a lot and say the three words I know in Japanese again and again. I hadnt spoken proper English and I hadnt told a joke that anyone understood in two weeks, so as soon as I was understood I unloaded two weeks worth of comedy. Alex was rolling and I again became American. My body language started to loosen up, I nodded up instead of down and started another war in the middle east. It was a breath of fresh air.
Monday, May 12, 2008
Typhoon
A typhoon NARROWLY missed Shikoku last night. Instead of coming on land, it was blown out to sea but a freak cold front. If it had hit I would have been right in its way. I am at temple 24 which is located on the eastern most tip of Shikoku and directly on the ocean. As I speak, I am admiring the view of churning foam, smelling the salt air and listening to the gentle crash of waves from my second story room. Still more wonderful and exciting things have happened, but I will leave the story for another day and another time.
Can someone tell me about Dan and Jo?
Can someone tell me about Dan and Jo?
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Thanks
I want to thank everyone who has shown me support on this trip, every single one of you has been amazing to me. I was wondering if anyone could send me some of their favorite lyrics, because I have this nasty habit of singing when I'm hiking and I keep singing the same five songs over and over again. Which are
1) Across the Sea by Weezer
2) Give me the loot by BIG
3) Various Beatles tunes
4) Fly me to the moon by Ol' Blue Eyes
5) I saw the sign by Ace of Base, (that last one is a joke...sort of)
I started the 88 temple hike a couple days ago, and unknowingly became a religious pilgrim called a henro. It involves wearing a sash, white garments, a ridiculous hat and praying at every single temple while lighting candles, burning incense, and reciting sutras. If you want to learn more go here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shikoku_Pilgrimage
I have pictures, video, and audio accounts of the trip which I will share with all of you when I see you. Many strange and wonderful things have happened and it would take way to long to write it all down.
I have hiked about 60km, have visited 17 temples, and have 5 blisters on my right foot, but kobo daishi is walking with me, so it's all good. I don't know if I'll be able to finish all of the temples because Yifei wants me to join her in Okinawa, and what kind of gentleman would I be if I turned her down?
1) Across the Sea by Weezer
2) Give me the loot by BIG
3) Various Beatles tunes
4) Fly me to the moon by Ol' Blue Eyes
5) I saw the sign by Ace of Base, (that last one is a joke...sort of)
I started the 88 temple hike a couple days ago, and unknowingly became a religious pilgrim called a henro. It involves wearing a sash, white garments, a ridiculous hat and praying at every single temple while lighting candles, burning incense, and reciting sutras. If you want to learn more go here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shikoku_Pilgrimage
I have pictures, video, and audio accounts of the trip which I will share with all of you when I see you. Many strange and wonderful things have happened and it would take way to long to write it all down.
I have hiked about 60km, have visited 17 temples, and have 5 blisters on my right foot, but kobo daishi is walking with me, so it's all good. I don't know if I'll be able to finish all of the temples because Yifei wants me to join her in Okinawa, and what kind of gentleman would I be if I turned her down?
Thursday, May 1, 2008
Oboke
The 29th was my last day for the japan rail pass, so I was headed to Shikoku to start the 88 temple run when I asked two girls, Red and Naria, where they were headed. They replied white water rafting and canyoning. That sounded like a great idea so I made them give me directions and met up with them in Oboke. It is a beautiful river valley town with houses on stilts set in green hills. The constant sound of water plays out over boulders lodged in the rivers floor and time passes a little more slowly here.
When we arrived we were picked up by Mike, Red already knew him, and were dropped off at a guest house up in the hills looking over the valley. This is the type of view that would cost you a couple hundred dollars a night in American, here, it was a scant twenty five. To the west the hills run into eachother to form a V and to the east are bamboo forests crowding slanted roof homes. Mike came back up after work and we partied a bit with fellow travelers. My thoat started to hurt, so I neglected to partake in the drinking.
The next day we suited up in two wet suits and hopped in a raft to brave the rapids. We surfed some rapids, jumped off towering cliffs, and I rode on the front during one of the smaller ones. It was a great and exhausting day.
I woke up the next day rested and went down to suit up again, but this time it was to jump and repel down waterfalls for half a day. It reminded me of playing outdoors when I was young, jumping in the creek that ran parrallel to my house, except this was big boy playing with forty foot waterfalls instead of one foot creeks.
This morning I packed up my bag, let my clothes dry, and realized I had lost my lonely planet guide book. Now I truly have no idea where I am going and what I am doing. It will make for an interesting couple of months.
When we arrived we were picked up by Mike, Red already knew him, and were dropped off at a guest house up in the hills looking over the valley. This is the type of view that would cost you a couple hundred dollars a night in American, here, it was a scant twenty five. To the west the hills run into eachother to form a V and to the east are bamboo forests crowding slanted roof homes. Mike came back up after work and we partied a bit with fellow travelers. My thoat started to hurt, so I neglected to partake in the drinking.
The next day we suited up in two wet suits and hopped in a raft to brave the rapids. We surfed some rapids, jumped off towering cliffs, and I rode on the front during one of the smaller ones. It was a great and exhausting day.
I woke up the next day rested and went down to suit up again, but this time it was to jump and repel down waterfalls for half a day. It reminded me of playing outdoors when I was young, jumping in the creek that ran parrallel to my house, except this was big boy playing with forty foot waterfalls instead of one foot creeks.
This morning I packed up my bag, let my clothes dry, and realized I had lost my lonely planet guide book. Now I truly have no idea where I am going and what I am doing. It will make for an interesting couple of months.
Monday, April 28, 2008
More
There is no way I can catch up, so instead Ill give you a quick recap.
April 22nd: Yifei and I went around Kyoto and saw the golden temple, the one you see in all the pictures of Japan, and a zen rock garden. We then ate ice cream. Instead of going back Yifei cancelled a meeting and stayed an extra day. We went out and bought a couple bottles of mango alcohol and proceeded to get drunk on the streets of Kyoto. We found an awesome bar and had it all to ourselves. Then we ended up at McDonalds at the end of the night. She missed the last train, so we headed back to the youth hostel and stayed there for the night.
April 23rd: Yifei had never stayed in a Youth Hostel before, so it was HILARIOUS to see her reaction in the morning. She is very polite and having a half naked german man with a hairy chest interrogate you in a common space was WAY to much for her timid upbringing. We tried to go to a place where they shoot a lot of Japanese samurai shows, but when we arrived it was a tourist trap for kids. Instead we got back on the bus and started walking to the bamboo forest, (the picture on the top of this blog) but got sidetracked when we met up with a couple youths who we asked to drive us on their motorcycles to where we wanted to go. Let me tell you, riding on the back of a scooter was the best feeling of the day, the guy who was driving was dodging in and out of traffic and took us right through the bamboo forest into a clearing next to a river. In my opinion, it was the most beautiful place in Kyoto. We then had spicy chinese for dinner, and then Yifei convinced me to come back to Nagoya with her for a day. My plan was to go to Nara, but plans change. We arrived in Nagoya , went out for great food and promptly fell asleep.
April 24th: Woke up late, lazed around. Tried to leave, was once again convinced to stay. Yifeis roomate Lee was leaving. Lee is a very angry guy. He refused to pay a water bill that hadnt arrived yet and expected Yifei to pay for the things he was leaving. Yifei, being the nice person she is, wanted to help Lee by buying all his stuff even though she had no use for it. She really didnt want to, so when she confronted Lee he went into a fit and started calling her some very nasty names. After around the second time he called her a slut, I stepped out and said, `its none of my business, but just dont use that language when talking to someone.` Then he asked me if I was getting in his face and pushed me. He was bigger than me had his shirt off and was ready to fight, so I had to out think him instead of fighting back. I fixated on a spot between his eyes, and showed him with body language, that I wasnt intimidated but that I wasnt going to fight back either. I looked at him as if he were a child throwing a tantrum. He shouted some more, demanded that I leave, and called me all the names in the book, but I just stood my ground until he shut the door. Then, like golem in his cave, he yelled obscinites into the phone to one of his friends until even that was quieted. When he came out again I tried to calmly explain the situation, and he freaked out on me again, so I didnt say anything and turned my back to him, again showing him that I wasnt intimiadated. He went back into his room, and a few more grumbles emminated from the shoji screen door. Yifeis other roommate wanted to call the police, and I was just looking around for something to bash him over the head with if it came to that. Then when he emerged for the third time I just turned my back to him and then, the most expected thing in the world occured, he apologized. He apologized for his behavior, for using foul language, for telling me off, and for losing his temper. I patted him on the back and said I understand, and then left with Yifei for dinner. After that I was on a high. It felt as if I had slayed a dragon with my words and wit alone. After dinner I went to bed satisfied.
April 25th: Yifei took me to a great Indian place for some nan and curry. Then we bid eachother farewell until June, when we have a plan to meet up in Hokkaido for two weeks. Then I turned my attention to Nara. Found a ryokan, ordered the breakfast for the morning. I went out, got blisteringly drunk with an 85 year old woman, her young 30 year old friend, and an 87 year old ex-kamikaze pilot, so that was fun. Wondered home and fell into bed.
April 26th: Went around Nara. Saw some temples, deer, vistas, gardens, the largest wooden buddha in the world, todai-ji, monks, stone lanterns, and Hide. It was a great day, and made me fall in love with Nara. If I come back to one place it will be there.
April 27th: Met a sad old man drinking sake and hating his retirement, big castle, a girl named Misty, Hiroshima.
April 28th:
Hiroshima:Atomic bomb
Museam:Sad
Bike:Freedom
Lunch:Good
Drinking:Bad
Dude:Philosophy
Night:Night
Now im going to Shikoku for some repelling and white water rafting. If this is the last time you hear from me I love you all. HAHAHAHAHAHA!
April 22nd: Yifei and I went around Kyoto and saw the golden temple, the one you see in all the pictures of Japan, and a zen rock garden. We then ate ice cream. Instead of going back Yifei cancelled a meeting and stayed an extra day. We went out and bought a couple bottles of mango alcohol and proceeded to get drunk on the streets of Kyoto. We found an awesome bar and had it all to ourselves. Then we ended up at McDonalds at the end of the night. She missed the last train, so we headed back to the youth hostel and stayed there for the night.
April 23rd: Yifei had never stayed in a Youth Hostel before, so it was HILARIOUS to see her reaction in the morning. She is very polite and having a half naked german man with a hairy chest interrogate you in a common space was WAY to much for her timid upbringing. We tried to go to a place where they shoot a lot of Japanese samurai shows, but when we arrived it was a tourist trap for kids. Instead we got back on the bus and started walking to the bamboo forest, (the picture on the top of this blog) but got sidetracked when we met up with a couple youths who we asked to drive us on their motorcycles to where we wanted to go. Let me tell you, riding on the back of a scooter was the best feeling of the day, the guy who was driving was dodging in and out of traffic and took us right through the bamboo forest into a clearing next to a river. In my opinion, it was the most beautiful place in Kyoto. We then had spicy chinese for dinner, and then Yifei convinced me to come back to Nagoya with her for a day. My plan was to go to Nara, but plans change. We arrived in Nagoya , went out for great food and promptly fell asleep.
April 24th: Woke up late, lazed around. Tried to leave, was once again convinced to stay. Yifeis roomate Lee was leaving. Lee is a very angry guy. He refused to pay a water bill that hadnt arrived yet and expected Yifei to pay for the things he was leaving. Yifei, being the nice person she is, wanted to help Lee by buying all his stuff even though she had no use for it. She really didnt want to, so when she confronted Lee he went into a fit and started calling her some very nasty names. After around the second time he called her a slut, I stepped out and said, `its none of my business, but just dont use that language when talking to someone.` Then he asked me if I was getting in his face and pushed me. He was bigger than me had his shirt off and was ready to fight, so I had to out think him instead of fighting back. I fixated on a spot between his eyes, and showed him with body language, that I wasnt intimidated but that I wasnt going to fight back either. I looked at him as if he were a child throwing a tantrum. He shouted some more, demanded that I leave, and called me all the names in the book, but I just stood my ground until he shut the door. Then, like golem in his cave, he yelled obscinites into the phone to one of his friends until even that was quieted. When he came out again I tried to calmly explain the situation, and he freaked out on me again, so I didnt say anything and turned my back to him, again showing him that I wasnt intimiadated. He went back into his room, and a few more grumbles emminated from the shoji screen door. Yifeis other roommate wanted to call the police, and I was just looking around for something to bash him over the head with if it came to that. Then when he emerged for the third time I just turned my back to him and then, the most expected thing in the world occured, he apologized. He apologized for his behavior, for using foul language, for telling me off, and for losing his temper. I patted him on the back and said I understand, and then left with Yifei for dinner. After that I was on a high. It felt as if I had slayed a dragon with my words and wit alone. After dinner I went to bed satisfied.
April 25th: Yifei took me to a great Indian place for some nan and curry. Then we bid eachother farewell until June, when we have a plan to meet up in Hokkaido for two weeks. Then I turned my attention to Nara. Found a ryokan, ordered the breakfast for the morning. I went out, got blisteringly drunk with an 85 year old woman, her young 30 year old friend, and an 87 year old ex-kamikaze pilot, so that was fun. Wondered home and fell into bed.
April 26th: Went around Nara. Saw some temples, deer, vistas, gardens, the largest wooden buddha in the world, todai-ji, monks, stone lanterns, and Hide. It was a great day, and made me fall in love with Nara. If I come back to one place it will be there.
April 27th: Met a sad old man drinking sake and hating his retirement, big castle, a girl named Misty, Hiroshima.
April 28th:
Hiroshima:Atomic bomb
Museam:Sad
Bike:Freedom
Lunch:Good
Drinking:Bad
Dude:Philosophy
Night:Night
Now im going to Shikoku for some repelling and white water rafting. If this is the last time you hear from me I love you all. HAHAHAHAHAHA!
Places
April 21st
The bad part about sleeping in the living room of a youth hostel is the wake up call. Lights come on at 7:30, but people wake up at 6:00 to get their morning cup. I caught up with Dan and Eileen before they left and accompanied them in the blisteringly hot sun to an open air market in Kyoto. The small cluttered stalls sold everything from octupus balls to samurai swords. It smelled like old clothes left in a dusty bin made from soy sauce. The ramen I ate for breakfast was fantastic and just spicy enough to leave me sweating.
After saying goodbye to Ben and Eileen I hung out in the train station waiting for Yifei while enjoying the local cuisine. When she arrived we exited the station heading east and climbed tiny brick laid streets discovering two giesha shuffling to an appointment along the way. From there we climbed a good number of steps to arrive at the top of a shrine overlooking the city. As we climbed down and had lunch at a small cafe serving bread-like things, I discovered that Yifei had her heart set on staying in a well known love hotel, so you dont get the wrong idea this particular love hotel was famous in Japan for being the cleanest and most well respected love hotel in the Kansai region. Unfortunetly it was booked solid. (That does not mean I will leave Japan without staying in one mind you. That day will come, and it will be relished, hot dog style.) Wondering around some more we discovered a near deserted temple, very rare in Kyoto, and had a look around. The monks were practicing their music, so we sat down and had our own private concert of music that made a dying cat sound like Bach. No, It really wasnt that bad, and the steady breeze more than made up for the incessent moose noise.
That night I stayed at an actual hotel, so as not to fall victim to snoring roomates, bad smells, and 6am wake up calls. A boy does need his beauty rest.
The bad part about sleeping in the living room of a youth hostel is the wake up call. Lights come on at 7:30, but people wake up at 6:00 to get their morning cup. I caught up with Dan and Eileen before they left and accompanied them in the blisteringly hot sun to an open air market in Kyoto. The small cluttered stalls sold everything from octupus balls to samurai swords. It smelled like old clothes left in a dusty bin made from soy sauce. The ramen I ate for breakfast was fantastic and just spicy enough to leave me sweating.
After saying goodbye to Ben and Eileen I hung out in the train station waiting for Yifei while enjoying the local cuisine. When she arrived we exited the station heading east and climbed tiny brick laid streets discovering two giesha shuffling to an appointment along the way. From there we climbed a good number of steps to arrive at the top of a shrine overlooking the city. As we climbed down and had lunch at a small cafe serving bread-like things, I discovered that Yifei had her heart set on staying in a well known love hotel, so you dont get the wrong idea this particular love hotel was famous in Japan for being the cleanest and most well respected love hotel in the Kansai region. Unfortunetly it was booked solid. (That does not mean I will leave Japan without staying in one mind you. That day will come, and it will be relished, hot dog style.) Wondering around some more we discovered a near deserted temple, very rare in Kyoto, and had a look around. The monks were practicing their music, so we sat down and had our own private concert of music that made a dying cat sound like Bach. No, It really wasnt that bad, and the steady breeze more than made up for the incessent moose noise.
That night I stayed at an actual hotel, so as not to fall victim to snoring roomates, bad smells, and 6am wake up calls. A boy does need his beauty rest.
Friday, April 25, 2008
Days
April 20th
I woke up on the hillside of Tsumago and stretched my legs, turning toward the morning sun I took a deep breath, grabbed my pack and set off on the trail. I walked another 6km to the train station and passed some of the most beautiful places I have seen in Japan. There were small houses with friendly occupants, fields stretching into the green mountains, and beautiful vistas. Unfortunetly, my camera died right on the top of Tsumago castle overlooking the entire town, but I will always remember it clearly. I arrived at the station an hour later and walked into a small grocery store that sold the most delicious fried chicken I have ever tasted. I liked it so much I went back for seconds, at which point the woman laughed with me, then waited around the train station for a couple of hours to catch the express train back to Nagoya.
From Nagoya I got a train to Kyoto and stayed at this really nice Youth Hostel called Tour Club, which is owned an operated by a fellow traveler who was appaled at the lack of youth hostels in Kyoto that were close to the train station. I didnt have a reservation, but lucky for me I could stay in the living room. When I arrived I met some really great people, named Ben and Eileen. Ben was a english man who was in Japan studying the Japanese flute. Eileen was also english, but her nationality was Chinese, she spoke both fluently. We all went out to dinner at a sushi train where I tried everything that looked inedible. I double dared Eileen to eat the baby squids with me, grimacing we both did.
After dinner I went with Ben to hear him practice his flute. I have a little on camera, so hopefully I can share that with you guys when I get to a place that has a photo program in english, for right now I can tell you it was magical. Especially since I was drinking two forties that I got out of a vending machine. Yifei had a couple days off, so I called her and we arranged to meet up the next day...
I woke up on the hillside of Tsumago and stretched my legs, turning toward the morning sun I took a deep breath, grabbed my pack and set off on the trail. I walked another 6km to the train station and passed some of the most beautiful places I have seen in Japan. There were small houses with friendly occupants, fields stretching into the green mountains, and beautiful vistas. Unfortunetly, my camera died right on the top of Tsumago castle overlooking the entire town, but I will always remember it clearly. I arrived at the station an hour later and walked into a small grocery store that sold the most delicious fried chicken I have ever tasted. I liked it so much I went back for seconds, at which point the woman laughed with me, then waited around the train station for a couple of hours to catch the express train back to Nagoya.
From Nagoya I got a train to Kyoto and stayed at this really nice Youth Hostel called Tour Club, which is owned an operated by a fellow traveler who was appaled at the lack of youth hostels in Kyoto that were close to the train station. I didnt have a reservation, but lucky for me I could stay in the living room. When I arrived I met some really great people, named Ben and Eileen. Ben was a english man who was in Japan studying the Japanese flute. Eileen was also english, but her nationality was Chinese, she spoke both fluently. We all went out to dinner at a sushi train where I tried everything that looked inedible. I double dared Eileen to eat the baby squids with me, grimacing we both did.
After dinner I went with Ben to hear him practice his flute. I have a little on camera, so hopefully I can share that with you guys when I get to a place that has a photo program in english, for right now I can tell you it was magical. Especially since I was drinking two forties that I got out of a vending machine. Yifei had a couple days off, so I called her and we arranged to meet up the next day...
Sunday, April 20, 2008
Hiking
I hopped on a train at Nagoya central train station and landed in Nakatsugawa, a small hub that connects to a lot of little towns around the area. One such town was Magome, the hike from Magome to Tsumago was on the lonely planets guide of the top 20 things to do in Japan, so I thought it might be worth a look. I started in a small row of edo period houses selling tourist crap and made my way to the observation deck overlooking the surrounding town and snow capped mountains. From there it was through the woods and over the bridges to Tsumago, another edo style row of houses, perserved by the government as a hertiage site. I took a look at all the prices for ryokan around the area and was astounded at the rates, so I asked the kind woman behind the tourist information desk if there was any camping. She came out from behind her desk and did the little shuffling run I've become accostomed. As I followed her outside and up some stairs she took me to a small field behind the building and pointed, so this was to be my home for the night. I had decided not to bring a tent, so I was to sleep under the stars that night. I was so tired by then that I rolled out my sleeping pad and went to sleep.
When I awoke it was dusk, and a quick tour of the town confrimed my fears that everything had shut down. I did pass a couple of film students shooting a low budget movie in the area, which was awesome. Apparently Japanese students also like shooting samurai period pieces. Then to my great surpise, because I had resigned myself to starvation, there was a small store open late. I bought two cans of tuna fish, a box of crackers, pinapple juice, and some apples. A feast enjoyed as the sky turned from purple, to dark blue, and finally to black.
When I awoke it was dusk, and a quick tour of the town confrimed my fears that everything had shut down. I did pass a couple of film students shooting a low budget movie in the area, which was awesome. Apparently Japanese students also like shooting samurai period pieces. Then to my great surpise, because I had resigned myself to starvation, there was a small store open late. I bought two cans of tuna fish, a box of crackers, pinapple juice, and some apples. A feast enjoyed as the sky turned from purple, to dark blue, and finally to black.
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
What?!
I set off on my grand adventure yesterday. Walked out of the comfort that was Tokyo, turned in my rail pass, and hopped on a shinkansen to Nagoya. The shinkansen was everything people said it would be, on time, fast, and relaxing. I watched as the landscape streaked past. I was amazed at the amount of urbran sprawl, there was nothing differentiating one city from the next. After the train ride I got off in Nagoya and immediatly became lost. Fortunetly with my backpack and guide book out I attracted attention like a rooster in a hen house. I was litterly surrounded by helpful women, two of which walked me all the way to the youth hostel I was staying at.
After checking in I dropped my bag in the room and set out for a tiny ramen stand that my guide book told me was the best in town. I only made it about 20 feet before I decided to eat at a soba shop that specialized in lemon shrimp. They brought me a hot towel to wipe my hands and face and tea to quench my parched throat. While listening to the soft tones of a single flute I inhaled my noodles and sat back satified. Then it was off to find a bar, the supposed best in town, called Heavens Door.
I walked for about half an hour trying to find the place and when I finally did, it had gone out of business. Down, but now out, I decided on a favorite ex pat bar called the elephants nest where I met an Aussie named Derrick. He was kind enough to buy me a drink and offer his place if I needed it. I met another of his friends and followed them to a bar called the Red Rock where I proceeded to hit on a cute girl named Megan all night. As she and her friends left I followed them because I was tired, my youth hostel had closed its doors about and hour ago, and Derrick lived in the same building. Megan was kind enough to pay my toll for the last train, so there I was with three cute girls Megan, Willow, and Yifey (pronounced: You-fay) and one seriously drunk english man named Lee. When I mentioned that I didnt really have a place to stay Yifey immediatly offered her room. Ill tell you a little bit about Yifey. She started in fashion as a Model and quickly decided that she didnt like the work so she became a fashion consultant, now she travels between Shanghi, London, the US, and everywhere else for work. Did I mention shes only 19? I see in her the drive to accomplish almost anything she sets her mind to. Ive been staying here for the last couple days because of rain, and Yifey has been a gracious hostess.
Today, I got temporarily kicked out because her roomate Lee, (a man who said he trusted me with his life, albeit while he was drunk) decided I could not be left alone in the apartment, so at around 10am I was locked out and was forced to have a great time on the streets of downtown Nagoya. I looked for the Robot museam for a long time, but to no avail. Instead I spent my afternoon lounging around a huge art museam. Lazy days in Nagoya. Next stop Kyoto.
A couple observations:
1) On esclators one is supposed to stay on the left, the right is for passing. The same applies on the street. I get confused by this one all the time.
2) Everyone here has a GREAT fashion sense.
3) If someone is in uniform they will be the most helpful person you have ever met.
After checking in I dropped my bag in the room and set out for a tiny ramen stand that my guide book told me was the best in town. I only made it about 20 feet before I decided to eat at a soba shop that specialized in lemon shrimp. They brought me a hot towel to wipe my hands and face and tea to quench my parched throat. While listening to the soft tones of a single flute I inhaled my noodles and sat back satified. Then it was off to find a bar, the supposed best in town, called Heavens Door.
I walked for about half an hour trying to find the place and when I finally did, it had gone out of business. Down, but now out, I decided on a favorite ex pat bar called the elephants nest where I met an Aussie named Derrick. He was kind enough to buy me a drink and offer his place if I needed it. I met another of his friends and followed them to a bar called the Red Rock where I proceeded to hit on a cute girl named Megan all night. As she and her friends left I followed them because I was tired, my youth hostel had closed its doors about and hour ago, and Derrick lived in the same building. Megan was kind enough to pay my toll for the last train, so there I was with three cute girls Megan, Willow, and Yifey (pronounced: You-fay) and one seriously drunk english man named Lee. When I mentioned that I didnt really have a place to stay Yifey immediatly offered her room. Ill tell you a little bit about Yifey. She started in fashion as a Model and quickly decided that she didnt like the work so she became a fashion consultant, now she travels between Shanghi, London, the US, and everywhere else for work. Did I mention shes only 19? I see in her the drive to accomplish almost anything she sets her mind to. Ive been staying here for the last couple days because of rain, and Yifey has been a gracious hostess.
Today, I got temporarily kicked out because her roomate Lee, (a man who said he trusted me with his life, albeit while he was drunk) decided I could not be left alone in the apartment, so at around 10am I was locked out and was forced to have a great time on the streets of downtown Nagoya. I looked for the Robot museam for a long time, but to no avail. Instead I spent my afternoon lounging around a huge art museam. Lazy days in Nagoya. Next stop Kyoto.
A couple observations:
1) On esclators one is supposed to stay on the left, the right is for passing. The same applies on the street. I get confused by this one all the time.
2) Everyone here has a GREAT fashion sense.
3) If someone is in uniform they will be the most helpful person you have ever met.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Weekend
Friday I went out to a club with Casey, Karryn, and Beau. This club was like every other club I've been to in LA, stuck up models who refuse to get off their pedestals and have a conversation that isn't entirely about them. That said, I did meet some interesting people, and when solider boy came on I did my best to show everyone how it was done. I was interviewed during the party for something, probably an online magazine article, but who knows. The most interesting part of the evening occurred when Casey and I approached a group of petite Japanese girls and stuck out our hands for an introduction. Casey's hand got a vigorous tug and mine was left in the air like a piece of hanging laundry. The girl refused my hand and coward behind her friend. I lifted my eyebrows in surprise, then shrugged and left. A couple minutes passed, then I was introduced to the same girl, and when I politely refused a second introduction, she jumped on me, literally jumped on me, grabbed my hands, put them on her butt, and squeezed. This was the same girl, but she had done a complete 180, so that was strange.
Saturday we all went to Great Burger, and great it was. I was at a table with three vegetarians, so I had to represent by getting a bacon cheese burger. The thing about great burger is that it allows dogs, and owns two french bulldogs that keep watch over the place. They are the mascots and alarm system for the restaurant. The place was probably violating fifteen different health codes, but it sure made for an adorable meal. Stuffed, we all walked home and contemplated what to do that evening. We could go to a club called Agahe where a friend I met as I was coming through immigration was dj-ing, or we could go to a opening party for tokyo mapquest. We decided on Tokyo mapquest because they were being catered by a vegan place and Beau had some business connections. We arrived at the building and sailed up to the pent house. The view was remarkable, the food was delicious, and the company was across the board. One woman performed magic for everyone, I shared my blanket with another, and sitting around a personal heater we told ghost stories. We had to leave early because we were waking up the next morning at 6 to go on a 10 mile hike.
I woke up at 5:50am, took a shower, and met up with the guys at Harajuku station at 6:30. We got the train and took a long ride out to the end of the line at Ome and got off in a picturesque town with bamboo forests and fog. We got on a giant tram next that took us to the top of the mountain, and if you have ever played resident evil 4 then you know what kind of tram I'm talking about. We visited a shrine and walked for about 6 hours in the slippery and foggy mountain top until we were spit back out where we started. Then came the most wonderful part of the journey: the onsen. It was absolutely heavenly to strip off my dirty, sweat crusted hiking clothes, and wash myself in a steaming hotub of mineral water. Ahhhhhhhhh.
Saturday we all went to Great Burger, and great it was. I was at a table with three vegetarians, so I had to represent by getting a bacon cheese burger. The thing about great burger is that it allows dogs, and owns two french bulldogs that keep watch over the place. They are the mascots and alarm system for the restaurant. The place was probably violating fifteen different health codes, but it sure made for an adorable meal. Stuffed, we all walked home and contemplated what to do that evening. We could go to a club called Agahe where a friend I met as I was coming through immigration was dj-ing, or we could go to a opening party for tokyo mapquest. We decided on Tokyo mapquest because they were being catered by a vegan place and Beau had some business connections. We arrived at the building and sailed up to the pent house. The view was remarkable, the food was delicious, and the company was across the board. One woman performed magic for everyone, I shared my blanket with another, and sitting around a personal heater we told ghost stories. We had to leave early because we were waking up the next morning at 6 to go on a 10 mile hike.
I woke up at 5:50am, took a shower, and met up with the guys at Harajuku station at 6:30. We got the train and took a long ride out to the end of the line at Ome and got off in a picturesque town with bamboo forests and fog. We got on a giant tram next that took us to the top of the mountain, and if you have ever played resident evil 4 then you know what kind of tram I'm talking about. We visited a shrine and walked for about 6 hours in the slippery and foggy mountain top until we were spit back out where we started. Then came the most wonderful part of the journey: the onsen. It was absolutely heavenly to strip off my dirty, sweat crusted hiking clothes, and wash myself in a steaming hotub of mineral water. Ahhhhhhhhh.
Thursday, April 10, 2008
Karaoke
I went walking around Shinjuku today, it's a great place to sample a taste of Tokyo's cheery sensory overload. I exited the train station and was bombarded with an enormous video screen with an adorable talking muffin selling muffins. I don't know why the muffin was so excited to be eaten, but apparently in the country of ritual suicide, everyone's a bit happy about their demise. I continued walking east down Shinjuku dori and passed some pretty incredible paintings on the street. The Isetan building, which contains fashionable boutiques that were way to elegent for me to even step inside, was right next door. Everyone I passed yelled, "irrashimase," or welcome. It was freighting because I thought they were trying to tell me to leave. I did have a sweaty t-shirt and backpack on in a store that sold pens for more than I make in a year. I left and turned left onto Yasukuni dori and saw the classic orange temple gate across the street. I crossed under the towering gate and made a small donation to the temple, rung a large bell, bowed, clapped two times, and bowed again. I think it has something to do with getting the temples blessing. Also I've gotten into the habit of paying tribute to the kitsune, or fox spirits cause they look the coolest and supposedly have a lot of pull in the spirit world. Next I went to Golden Gai, a collection of tiny networking alleyways devoted entirely to small stand up watering holes. It was completely deserted during the day, but I could only imagine the noise and debauchery that went on during the night. Maybe I'll found out. After that I took a brief look into the red light district, couldn't tell the difference between hair salons and strip clubs, so I left.
Later that night I went out with Casey to meet up with his friend Jeff for a hanami party. We picked up some beers then, get this, drank them on the street. Yeah, apparently Japan has no open container laws, so it's perfectly okay to drink on the subway or on the street, or in a park. Which is exactly what we did until Jeff, drunk out of his mind, called us. When we arrived the hanami party was pretty much non existent except for Jeff who had his pants around his ankles and was swinging from the closest cherry blossom tree. His girlfriend Christine and her friend, "princess" showed up a little later, and man, did the drama start. It was like watching an episode of the OC, and for some reason I felt it absolutely necessary to involve myself in their personal battle, so I stood behind Jeff and made comments to fuel or cool their fighting.
After the drama Christine decided we should all go to karaoke. Karaoke in Japan is ten times better than any karaoke I've been to in the states, for one, you can have your own small room, order food and get non stop drinks all night. Also the song list is EXTENSIVE and updated regularly. Want to sing some obscure song from the 80's? They'll probably have it. We drank, and sung, and drank, and sung some more. The night ended with Jeff, Casey and I, drunk out of our minds eating ramen at an all night shop that smelled like a bathroom. The ramen was still good though.
Later that night I went out with Casey to meet up with his friend Jeff for a hanami party. We picked up some beers then, get this, drank them on the street. Yeah, apparently Japan has no open container laws, so it's perfectly okay to drink on the subway or on the street, or in a park. Which is exactly what we did until Jeff, drunk out of his mind, called us. When we arrived the hanami party was pretty much non existent except for Jeff who had his pants around his ankles and was swinging from the closest cherry blossom tree. His girlfriend Christine and her friend, "princess" showed up a little later, and man, did the drama start. It was like watching an episode of the OC, and for some reason I felt it absolutely necessary to involve myself in their personal battle, so I stood behind Jeff and made comments to fuel or cool their fighting.
After the drama Christine decided we should all go to karaoke. Karaoke in Japan is ten times better than any karaoke I've been to in the states, for one, you can have your own small room, order food and get non stop drinks all night. Also the song list is EXTENSIVE and updated regularly. Want to sing some obscure song from the 80's? They'll probably have it. We drank, and sung, and drank, and sung some more. The night ended with Jeff, Casey and I, drunk out of our minds eating ramen at an all night shop that smelled like a bathroom. The ramen was still good though.
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
Windy
It's a rainy day in Tokyo, so I decided to stay inside. Inside is at Karryn's house, who was kind enough to offer me her roommates place while he's away in the Netherlands. Yesterday I accompanied her to a yoga class she teaches and twisted myself into exhaustion. When we arrived home Karryn cooked a vegetarian meal and her other roommate Tony and I watched a Japanese game show about competing magicians.
Today I cozied up in a blanket and started a novel about a Japanese girl who goes to San Francisco to get married, but when she arrives her fiancee dumps her for a skinny American blond girl. Determined to never return to Japan Midori sets off to create her own future in America. I read for awhile then heard the gentle ringing of distant bells calling for me to come outside in the rain. I put on my giant red rain jacket and headed for the glass sliding door leading to the street. When I approached the door I heard the familiar rushing noise of a door opening and then walked full faced into the glass door. It turns out that the other side had opened and instead of air I was greeted with a face full of pain, if there had been a camera I'd have won a good deal of money on American's funniest home videos. I checked my head for blood and when I found none I enjoyed a hearty full bodied laugh. When I had fully recovered from my fit I saw an old woman bent over at the waist trying to carrying a couple bags of groceries and an umbrella. She seemed to be struggling so I asked if I could help. She looked up at me and her eyes sparkled and she said, "domo arigato gozimasu." I took the groceries and she tried her best to keep the umbrella over us both even though I was three or more feet taller than her. We didn't say much but walked VERY slowly toward what I could only assume was her house. When we arrived she thanked me again and said, "chotto matte." So I waited, and soon enough she returned after a couple of minutes with a bunch of cookies and treats.
I stepped out onto the street once more my head to the wind and popped a cookie into my mouth. I scanned the vicinity for a lunch spot and found one. Places in Tokyo have very small restaurants, this one had only three tables, one of which was a single. I sat down, shaking off the rain, and ordered the only thing I understood on the menu. "Chikun Kuri." After lunch I returned to the apartment and read a couple manga in english. Tonight Beau, Karryn, Casey and I are all headed to an underground ping pong bar. My plan is to tell everyone I'm terrible, make massive bets, then use the money to feed the homeless...which at the moment is me.
Today I cozied up in a blanket and started a novel about a Japanese girl who goes to San Francisco to get married, but when she arrives her fiancee dumps her for a skinny American blond girl. Determined to never return to Japan Midori sets off to create her own future in America. I read for awhile then heard the gentle ringing of distant bells calling for me to come outside in the rain. I put on my giant red rain jacket and headed for the glass sliding door leading to the street. When I approached the door I heard the familiar rushing noise of a door opening and then walked full faced into the glass door. It turns out that the other side had opened and instead of air I was greeted with a face full of pain, if there had been a camera I'd have won a good deal of money on American's funniest home videos. I checked my head for blood and when I found none I enjoyed a hearty full bodied laugh. When I had fully recovered from my fit I saw an old woman bent over at the waist trying to carrying a couple bags of groceries and an umbrella. She seemed to be struggling so I asked if I could help. She looked up at me and her eyes sparkled and she said, "domo arigato gozimasu." I took the groceries and she tried her best to keep the umbrella over us both even though I was three or more feet taller than her. We didn't say much but walked VERY slowly toward what I could only assume was her house. When we arrived she thanked me again and said, "chotto matte." So I waited, and soon enough she returned after a couple of minutes with a bunch of cookies and treats.
I stepped out onto the street once more my head to the wind and popped a cookie into my mouth. I scanned the vicinity for a lunch spot and found one. Places in Tokyo have very small restaurants, this one had only three tables, one of which was a single. I sat down, shaking off the rain, and ordered the only thing I understood on the menu. "Chikun Kuri." After lunch I returned to the apartment and read a couple manga in english. Tonight Beau, Karryn, Casey and I are all headed to an underground ping pong bar. My plan is to tell everyone I'm terrible, make massive bets, then use the money to feed the homeless...which at the moment is me.
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Phallic
I woke up and had options. I could go with Brian on an indefite walk around the Mita area in Tokyo or I could go with Beau, Blake's friend, to the Penis Festival. The choice was obvious. Legend has it that in a small village in Japan a woman was possesed by a vagina demon, after the demon claimed the manhood of two youths, a blacksmith created an iron penis effectivly breaking the demons teeth and freeing the woman from a lifetime of ridicule. After grabbing a quick lunch at Dean and Deluca and meeting Casey, Beau's brother and Karrya, beau's kiwi girlfriend, we arrived at the penis parade to chanting men carrying large phallic statues.
Then we went to Harajuku to watch girl's stand around in costumes. Oh and guess who else likes Japan, John Mayer. That's right, John Mayer loves us. After that brief encounter I had a bunch of octopus balls fried in batter, they taste better than they sound, and then took a short nap in the adjacent park.
We all went out to dinner for okonomiyaki, fried batter with ingredients, and enjoyed my meat lovers while sitting with three vegetarians. Apparently there's an art to creating the perfect okonomiyaki, and I failed miserably. Everyone else's looked like pancakes, mine looked like a retarded omelette. Great conversation, great people and good food, who could ask for anything more? How bout three high school Japanese girls who kept looking at Casey and I? Yeah.
Then we went to Harajuku to watch girl's stand around in costumes. Oh and guess who else likes Japan, John Mayer. That's right, John Mayer loves us. After that brief encounter I had a bunch of octopus balls fried in batter, they taste better than they sound, and then took a short nap in the adjacent park.
We all went out to dinner for okonomiyaki, fried batter with ingredients, and enjoyed my meat lovers while sitting with three vegetarians. Apparently there's an art to creating the perfect okonomiyaki, and I failed miserably. Everyone else's looked like pancakes, mine looked like a retarded omelette. Great conversation, great people and good food, who could ask for anything more? How bout three high school Japanese girls who kept looking at Casey and I? Yeah.
Saturday, April 5, 2008
Landing
It's hard to describe a feeling I've never had before. A feeling that I belong in a place I've never been. I woke up at 4:30am April 3rd in California and arrived April 4th at 4pm in Japan with a lay over in Vancouver. One thing I can say about Canada is that it has a really beautiful airport, and that's aboot it. I landed after 15 hours in the air and immediately got on a train from Narita to Tokyo. A man smelling of alcohol and sweat sat next to me and presumably mumbled some of the only words he knew in English, and so started an hour long conversation using limited vocabulary and a lot of hand gestures. We talked about politics, "Obama! Change, change." "Hai, Obama suki desu. Bush damae," food, "Where do you recommend I go for good food in Tokyo?" "Ah so." Then he walked me to my connection and we bid eachother farewell. There are really nice people in Japan.
I reached Tamachi station, flagged down the nearest white guy and asked to use his phone. I called Brian Malone, a friend of my brothers who lives in Tokyo. He came and got me and we walked through the streets of Mita to his small apartment overlooking a park filled with cherry blossoms. The first thing I noticed walking in Tokyo was the quiet and cleanliness. Try to imagine New York, and now take away the noise, homeless and trash, and you have a good idea of what it was like walking in Tokyo.
After I met Amber, Brian's girlfriend, we all left for the cramped alleyways of izakaya and had a wonderful japanese meal at big big pizza. Guess what he ate. The thing about Japanese food, is that it is always distinctly Japanese no matter what you're eating. It can be American, Italian, or anything else, but it will always have a distinct Japanese flavor or look. This meal was no different, after a couple courses of sashimi, sake, and salad, they brought out a big big pizza that looked like garlic bread with some cheese on top. It was all delicious. After a couple more drinks I headed home to a long nights sleep and about an hour of strange Japanese television at 3 o'clock in the morning. Something about a sushi chef who knows kung fu and gains spiky hair power when he looks a fish eye. Gyo! My new favorite show.
I reached Tamachi station, flagged down the nearest white guy and asked to use his phone. I called Brian Malone, a friend of my brothers who lives in Tokyo. He came and got me and we walked through the streets of Mita to his small apartment overlooking a park filled with cherry blossoms. The first thing I noticed walking in Tokyo was the quiet and cleanliness. Try to imagine New York, and now take away the noise, homeless and trash, and you have a good idea of what it was like walking in Tokyo.
After I met Amber, Brian's girlfriend, we all left for the cramped alleyways of izakaya and had a wonderful japanese meal at big big pizza. Guess what he ate. The thing about Japanese food, is that it is always distinctly Japanese no matter what you're eating. It can be American, Italian, or anything else, but it will always have a distinct Japanese flavor or look. This meal was no different, after a couple courses of sashimi, sake, and salad, they brought out a big big pizza that looked like garlic bread with some cheese on top. It was all delicious. After a couple more drinks I headed home to a long nights sleep and about an hour of strange Japanese television at 3 o'clock in the morning. Something about a sushi chef who knows kung fu and gains spiky hair power when he looks a fish eye. Gyo! My new favorite show.
Saturday, March 29, 2008
My first test run with weight
For those of you who don't know I'm spending three months traveling Japan. It's something that I've wanted to do since middle school, so it's a dream come true.
It was a lazy Saturday in Los Angeles County when I decided to go for a brief hike. I got dressed in clothes I didn't care about, plaid shorts, an ironic tee, a green A's hat, and hiking boots with long socks. Will said I couldn't look any more like a gaijin tourist, which I took as a compliment. I stuffed a sleeping bag, ground pad and 20 pounds of free weights in my REI bought gregory backpack and went for a walk in the Hollywood hills. Griffith is a small park nestled in between the 101 and five highways where out of towner's go to hike to the Hollywood sign. I had placed the 20 pound weights, not in the middle of the bag as the instructions specified, but on the very bottom, so as to make my life harder. As I was leaving I remember my roommate Blake saying, "if you can't do this hike, there's no way in hell you can make it in Japan." Indeed, but I had broken in my boots in Austin at South by South West, so I thought the hike would be easy.
It was a typical southern California day, not a cloud in the sky, hot as swampballs, and smoggy. Who's bright idea was it to hike during the midday sun? I walk up the first incline and put on a big smile because I think for the first two minutes that this is how it's going to be the entire time I'm in Japan. Sunny, comfortable, and breezy. I decided to be nice to everyone who passed hoping that a kind word would be returned, but to no avail. The people I encountered either looked at me as if they had just eaten something distasteful, or pretended they didn't hear me. The only people that responded to my hearty, "how's it going there," were the people who looked like freaks. Freaks are apparently the nicest in LA.
I had stopped for a brief rest at the top of a hill, and was contemplating returning to my car when I asked a nice women if I could make a loop back to the parking lot. She seemed pretty confident that I could, so I decided that I would follow her to the Hollywood Sign. Little did I know that there was no way to get back to the parking lot, the trail that I thought would lead me out was actually leading me to the other side of the canyon. I was running out of water and patience, so instead of going back the way I came I decided to forge ahead and walk back to the main street, cross over and come up behind my car. This took a lot longer than I had anticipated, and to make matters worse I felt my feet surrender to pain.
A bit of reprieve was administered by a well placed upscale diner. I was soaked to the bone with sweat, ordered up a tall glass of water and a ham sandwich. There's something about a lot of exercise that enhances the taste of food, and this was no exception. It was the best damn sandwich I have ever had. After the diner I finally made it back to the main road, crossed over and walked back another mile to my car. In total I walked five miles with about 25 to 27 pounds on my back with shoes that turned out to not be broken in, but I was happy because with each step that I took I felt like I was getting closer to Japan.
It was a lazy Saturday in Los Angeles County when I decided to go for a brief hike. I got dressed in clothes I didn't care about, plaid shorts, an ironic tee, a green A's hat, and hiking boots with long socks. Will said I couldn't look any more like a gaijin tourist, which I took as a compliment. I stuffed a sleeping bag, ground pad and 20 pounds of free weights in my REI bought gregory backpack and went for a walk in the Hollywood hills. Griffith is a small park nestled in between the 101 and five highways where out of towner's go to hike to the Hollywood sign. I had placed the 20 pound weights, not in the middle of the bag as the instructions specified, but on the very bottom, so as to make my life harder. As I was leaving I remember my roommate Blake saying, "if you can't do this hike, there's no way in hell you can make it in Japan." Indeed, but I had broken in my boots in Austin at South by South West, so I thought the hike would be easy.
It was a typical southern California day, not a cloud in the sky, hot as swampballs, and smoggy. Who's bright idea was it to hike during the midday sun? I walk up the first incline and put on a big smile because I think for the first two minutes that this is how it's going to be the entire time I'm in Japan. Sunny, comfortable, and breezy. I decided to be nice to everyone who passed hoping that a kind word would be returned, but to no avail. The people I encountered either looked at me as if they had just eaten something distasteful, or pretended they didn't hear me. The only people that responded to my hearty, "how's it going there," were the people who looked like freaks. Freaks are apparently the nicest in LA.
I had stopped for a brief rest at the top of a hill, and was contemplating returning to my car when I asked a nice women if I could make a loop back to the parking lot. She seemed pretty confident that I could, so I decided that I would follow her to the Hollywood Sign. Little did I know that there was no way to get back to the parking lot, the trail that I thought would lead me out was actually leading me to the other side of the canyon. I was running out of water and patience, so instead of going back the way I came I decided to forge ahead and walk back to the main street, cross over and come up behind my car. This took a lot longer than I had anticipated, and to make matters worse I felt my feet surrender to pain.
A bit of reprieve was administered by a well placed upscale diner. I was soaked to the bone with sweat, ordered up a tall glass of water and a ham sandwich. There's something about a lot of exercise that enhances the taste of food, and this was no exception. It was the best damn sandwich I have ever had. After the diner I finally made it back to the main road, crossed over and walked back another mile to my car. In total I walked five miles with about 25 to 27 pounds on my back with shoes that turned out to not be broken in, but I was happy because with each step that I took I felt like I was getting closer to Japan.
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